Snablet's Travels.

(Part Two)

BANGGAI - SULAWESI DEC 10 - JAN 3.

A ridge of limestone mountains form the spine of the eastern peninsula of Sulawesi. They are set back about 10 from the southern coast.  These mountains are very steep and covered in dense primary forest.  Streams resurge at the base of the mountains.  The limestone is rarely exposed to the surface but the caves we visited were easily found (walk up the river, over lots of gour pools and stal cascades, then enter the large railway tunnel at the base of the mountains - it couldn't be easier.)  The rest of the land down to the coast has been deforested in attempts to cultivate it. The rock here is softer reef limestone.

GUA BETAN - DESA KAMUMU - LUWUK.

From the village of Kamumu a 3km walk north to the base of the mountains, through forest.  A large stream resurges from behind boulders.  10m behind the resurgence a small dry entrance opens into a stream passage. The stream way (average passage dimensions 4m x 5m) is clean and flowing.  A major stream inlet enters from the left.  This inlet has only been partially explored for over 200m to a fork in the passage.  Exploration had to cease because we had a bus to catch back to Luwuk.  Further up the main stream a small passage leads off to the right which ends in an unpleasant sump.  A short distance further up the main stream several high level roof passages can be seen.  The main streamway continues on for over 400m until eventually the roof lowers and the water deepens.  A short swim leads to a small archway (0.5m x 1m) with 2cm of air space.  Ducking through the archway takes you into the terminal chamber where a large and deep sump drops straight down beneath your feet. We surveyed the main stream, its length totalled 845m.

Surveyed by: J. Smart, A. Becher, P. McNab. Dec 94.

GUA TAJAHAN - DESA KAMUMU - LUWUK.

From the village of Kamumu, follow the main road south for approximately 2km.  A footpath to the left leads away from the road and descends steeply through the forest to the "Sangai Biak" (river). The path crosses the river and follows the smaller tributary upstream for a couple of klicks.  The stream way is very calcited.  There are a couple of small resurgences along the banks of the stream, they were all very small with lots of water coming out (un-entered). The stream way eventually leads to a hill with a large cave entrance 4m high x 3m wide) appearing from within the ivy. The cave winds its way up into the hillside.  The white rock is very sharp and brittle and the stream flows fast down small cascades and swirl pools.  A 3m waterfall has to be climbed to gain access into the final bat filled chamber, then onto the terminal sump. Approx 500m long and 30m vertical range.

A.Becher, J.Smart, P.McNab. Dec 94.

(In Search of) GUA BABI - LUBAN BAO - KINTOM.

We were awoken early in the morning by a small earthquake.  Unfortunately our early start was wasted, due to lots of red tape and bureaucracy at Kintom police station and army barracks.  Eventually we were able to set off.  We walked for 5km up river from Kintom to Lobang Boa, where 30m high calcited waterfalls cascaded into the river.  (We had asked to see caves with stalactites and a river inside - they showed us rivers and stalactites, unfortunately they were not underground).  Large limestone boulders, double-decker bus size, were in the river bed.  The gorge itself looked to be some sort of conglomerate. The water coming down the falls had a very high calcite solution content, evidence of this could be seen where recently fallen leaves were being calcited to the flowstone.  Goa Babi is apparently a days walk through the forest from this spot.

We had some bad luck on our way back to Luwuk which put a stop to any further caving for a few days. The driver of the Bemo we were travelling in managed to roll the Bemo on a straight road.  Luckily we were in the very back of the Bemo so we were slightly protected from being thrown out of the door when it rolled, or through the windscreen when it hit the wall, we were lucky to get away with only minor cuts and bruises.  An ambulance arrived on the scene in no time, the badly injured were loaded on, then loaded off, then some villagers got on and were rushed off to the fish market before it shut!  Indonesians have a strange sense of priorities!

Some other caves in the area that we found out about or only partially visited –

GUA HAHUNG - ASAAN

1km north of Asaan on the road to Pagimana there is a small field on the east side of the road.  At the base of a limestone knoll at the back of the field there is a cave entrance. A 2m climb down to a ledge gives you an ideal bolt placement site for the next 6m pitch into what looks to be a chamber.  There are two possible routes for descent.

A.Becher, J.Smart, P.McNab.

GUA KELLAS - KELLAS - LUWUK.

Reported to be a cave with fossils and water in it.

RANGA RANGA - BONEBOBAKAL - LUWUK.

Reputed to be a cave with stal in the forest near Sangai Lamba.

GUA NIPPON - KAMPANGAR - BALANTAK.

A cave used by the Japanese during WWII 3km north of the village.

GUA SALODIK - SALODIK.

A cave our guide for Gua Betan was going to take us to.

GUA MOLOAGU - LAUW AN

Told of by our guide for Gua Betan.  There is also reputed to be a cave above the hills of Batui.  Also reputed are caves at Liang (which is local dialect for 'cave') on Peling Island.

Practicalities and Access.

Accommodation in Luwuk is not a problem.  There are at least 10 Hotels, Wismas and Losmen and in the country there is always someone willing to put you up.  Carbide is readily available in the hardware stores in Luwuk.  There is also a photocopying shop which can copy A1 and A0 size paper - very handy for drawing up surveys.  There is cold beer available in a couple of restaurants as well as Dragon Whisky in a couple of shops.  (It's half the price of the beer!)  There is a coastal road and a road that cuts across the spine of the peninsula.

Footpaths and horse tracks service the rest of the land.  River beds are also good for getting inland.  It is always possible to find someone willing to guide you to local caves for around 500RP per day.  Very little English is spoken on the Eastern peninsula so you have to learn some Bahasa Indonesian, especially in the villages.

Land:

A bus service exists between Poso and Luwuk, which runs on a daily basis.  There are also weekly buses from Palo and VIP.  Several Bemos run daily between Pagimana and Luwuk.  Bemos and buses constantly service the coastal villages on the road.

Sea:

Ships come from Bitung and Kendari every two weeks.  A ferry runs between Gorontalo and Pagimana every other day.  Regular cargo vessels and boats travel up and down the coast on a regular basis and take passengers.

Air:

Luwuk has a small airfield with regular flights to Manado and VIP.

TENGGARA SULAWESI.

The Southeast peninsula covers 38000 sq Km, an area the size of Ireland, a large percentage of which is reported to be limestone, this hopefully gives a bit of scope for cave exploration.  The main road cuts the peninsula in two, the majority of the limestone hills are to the North and this area is fairly inaccessible.  A road is still under construction linking Wa???? to Asera then on to Tambua, so far the road is still very bad, we had to get out and push the Bemo on the steep bits!  Asera to Tambua road is still only passable by foot.  These roads are being constructed to service new transmigration sites.

TINOBU - LASOLO.

GVA LARODANGGE (ONE).

The cave is situated approximately 60m from the road.  A small path leads to the first entrance.  A low stooping passage leads off but soon enters a bat filled chamber with lots of Guano.  A passage to the right leads steeply up to a second entrance.  There are a few small side passages but all soon choke with mud and boulders, 150m long.

GUA LARODANGGE (TWO).

Located 20m North of GL one, at the same altitude.  A dry Guano covered entrance reveals a pleasant walking passage, which leads to the main drag to the right (downstream).  An extremely bat filled passage leads to a second main resurgence entrance.  To the left the roomy passage soon deteriorates into a wet stoop.  Past a spacious chamber on the left through a low stony scramble into an unpleasant crawling passage strewn with flood debris.

A U tube is encountered leading into a very pleasant passage with large calcite bobbles.  To the right approximately 4m up, a small passage enters above a flowstone (so far un-entered).  A rope and protection would be handy for the ascent.  To the left a fine passage continues to a short climb. After an awkward thrutch through a window, you end up in a well decorated chamber.  (A howling draught comes out through the window).  In the chamber there are two high level passages. The right hand side aven was climbed but to no avail.  The left hand side aven requires a bolting kit and Etrieres.  We presume the draught comes from this aven, it is also the only promising lead we saw in the cave.  Survey length 330m.

MATAROMBEO GUNUNG - ASERA

We hired a Johnson for the day from a Mr Hatta in Wawalalindu, as the only way to get around this area is by boat on the river Lalindu (no roads!).  A 2½ hour boat journey to Desa Dinolnojo.  Padalere our guide could unfortunately, not find the cave (Gua Tanggesa).  We did have an impressive ride up a limestone gorge, approx. 100m high, with limestone mountains towering above, sporting large white cliffs and covered in primary rain forest.  According to our not very accurate Nelles map the Matarombeo mountains reach a height of 1551m.  The peaks are very jagged and look like limestone tower karst.  (But it would be impossible to tell without hacking your way through the jingle with a machete to get there!).  We noticed three large entrances and one small one in the cliffs but it would take much effort to reach them, unfortunately our guide didn't know the way and lacked enthusiasm, plus no climbing gear.  It looked a very interesting area.  The limestone resembles that found in Beteleme (Ref 1989 cave reconnaissance, C.Boothroyd. C.Sulawesi.) except here there is another 1000m of mountain towering above, which also looks like limestone.

Approximately a 2 hour back down stream, we took a tributary for 2 hrs.  A very large entrance in the mountain can be seen.  This is called Gua Tawalarondo in Desa Lamonai (Landawe). From the village a ½ hour unpleasant walk through a swamp followed by a ½ hour climb hacking up through dense forest and limestone cones and pinnacles.  We found ourselves completely lost.  We eventually came across a largish entrance which didn't have much in the way of cave within it ... Stal choke!  Our guide tried to tell us that this was the entrance that we had seen from two miles away.  It was not. You could hardly see out past all the trees and it was a tenth of the size.

This area looks really good, lots of limestone with high cliffs and high mountains. The Matarombeo would be an ideal site for an expedition bit it would need to be well funded as the only mode of transport is by chartered boat (Johnsons).  The locals know of lots of caves around their villages, but the majority of the area is uninhabited and covered in forest.  No English is spoken.  We spoke to the local English teacher and we could speak 10 times more Indonesian than he could English!

ACCESS AND PRACTICALITIES.

As with Luwuk, Kendari is a major port and easily accessible, with plenty of accommodation and hostelries.  Bemos run from Kedari to Asera (5 hour journey) or boats run from Kedari to Wawalinu and Tinobu once a week.

ACCESS TO KENDARI

Land:

No land routes to the rest of Sulawesi.

Air:

Daily flights from U/P.

Sea:

A daily ferry runs from Bone to Kandlo.  Ships run to Bau-Bau and Kendari on a regular basis.

Snablet.

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